Of course it is expectations high, and thoughts about what this means ”The best hotel in the world” is going around in my head. How luxurious will it be? Will I feel uncomfortable? Have I polished my shoes? Is My dress Wrinkled?
Photo: Ruben Ortiz
Our driver rings the bell, the high iron gate opens, and the Mercedes SL 350 we're travelling in rolls in, followed by us a roaring red Ferrari, a standard 488...
Our bags are brought in, we walk on the fine grey gravel towards the villa's entrance. I look up. ”Wow,” I manage to think, as I see the beautiful staircase and the magnificent chandelier in hand-blown glass from Murano – custom-made to fit just here. It is beautiful and grand. We sit down to check in and get a ”proper” key to our suite. Passalacqua offers a total of 24 rooms spread across three different buildings. Twelve of these are in the main building, La Villa, where we will be staying. Of the remaining twelve, eight are in the former stables, The Palazz, and four in Casa al Lago, a building slightly further down towards the water where all rooms have their own patio.
Before we put the key in the lock, we'll start with a brief look back. We find ourselves in the village of Moltrasio by How do you feel, less than six miles from Milan, or alternatively 14 miles from Florence. Which makes the location perfect and interesting both historically and today. The land here once belonged to Pope Innocent IX, and was bought at the end of the 18th century by Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua. In collaboration with architect Felice Soave and designer Giocondo, he had Passalacqua built, which was inaugurated in 1787 and was then one of the very largest villas here by the lake. He wanted to create a cultural centre here.
Bellini composes
The villa became a meeting place for many prominent guests, including artists, aristocrats, and world leaders. Napoleon and Churchill both have passed through, and the Italian composer Luciano Bellini lived here between 1829 and 1833, here he was inspired and composed two of his operas: La Sonnambula (The Sleepwalker) and Norma.
Today, the very finest suite bears his name., Bellini Suite, Of course, with a magnificent grand piano in situ. It’s not there our key fits, but to a room below. The view, however, is almost the same. High ceilings, and here too, every detail has been thought through. Classic furniture, heavy curtains, a marble bathroom, a Dyson hair styler, and a TV that can be raised from a trunk designed by Bottega Veneta. Fresh flowers in a vase, offering the scent of summer.
Come down and eat something if you're hungry after the trip, says Gianluca Irrera, who works here. Thoughtful.
I'm taking a moment to myself. I'm going out into the garden and finding a serving area where the fire in a pizza oven is burning. I myself am ordering a lobster roll, a lobster sandwich on a creamy mixture on a piece of brioche, and a glass of freshly made lemonade. Italian classic melodies are playing in the background, the birds are chirping, the lake is visible down there, it's supposed to be the deepest in Italywhere the maximum depth measures 425 metres below sea level. Someone laughs, footsteps can be heard on the gravel, oh how I like that sound. The plate my sandwich is served on is decorated with both flowers and butterflies, which I both note in my notebook and take a photo of. And it's here that it starts to dawn on me how good it is. Beautiful, relaxed, warm. I don't think about my shoes being dusty or whether my dress is creased anymore.
Mild sweet bowls
On my way back to the room, I'm looking for Delia Facchini; she works in PR here and we're having dinner together later this evening. Mild sweet bowls At reception I find, perhaps not surprisingly, Valentina De Santis instead. She's involved in absolutely everything, and she's the lead in the new updated version of Passalaqcua. Her energy is infectious, we chat for a while, I grab some sweets and then retreat.
Passalaqua has a varied history, and it didn't even manage to be inherited for more than one generation before it ended up on the market. It has been owned by both a colourful baroness from Estonia and an anthropologist from Hungary. Most recently, in 2018, it was up for sale again at the auction house Sotheby's with a starting price of 100 million Euros. Silvio Berlusconi was one of the speculators. However, it was the De Santis family who won the closed bidding, that they have run it for three generations Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which is located a bit further away, was probably no disadvantage. The price tag remains a secret.
The work to transform what was once a home into a hotel began. The buildings and the seven hectares of land included in the purchase were carefully renovated and restored. Valentina and her mother Antonella have performed a minor miracle here – down to the smallest detail. Local artists and small local craft businesses have been given a place alongside antiques and bespoke furniture, thus creating unique environments. In June 2022, it was finally time to open. Interest was high, and globetrotters from all corners of the earth put Pasqualacqua on their Bucket List.
The world's best hotel
In September of the following year, it was announced that Passalacqua was on the list of candidates for the very first World's 50 Best Hotels awards. The category was new; previously, only bars and restaurants had received recognition. Valentina, owner and CEO of Passalacqua, hotel director Silvio Vettorello, and PR manager Delia travelled to London. Delia recounts:
– We had decided that if we reached the top 20, we would send out a press release. When they started announcing the top ten, we said, ”Oh my God.” Down to number 5 – "We will maybe?" And at number two, we started thinking, "Have they forgotten us!"
First place was a certainty. Just one year after the doors opened, they were confirmed to have succeeded in creating something unique. At the awards ceremony, Valentina said:
If you can dream it, you can do it. Passalacqua is a symbol of a dream come true. It is a story of love and family, where passion and dreams are fundamental ingredients.
So now a lot is about continuing to deliver at the highest level while maintaining the family feel. The award for World's Best Hotel 2024 will be presented in September; whether they retain their ranking remains to be seen. We finish our dinner by dipping delicate profiteroles into even more chocolate.
From transport to spa
During our visit, they had just opened their spa, located in the stable building and in the old 50-metre tunnel in the basement. This tunnel was originally built for transport and takes you from the stable down to the lake. However, we don't go all the way, but stop to enjoy a sauna. Then, we continue to the swimming pool, which is 18 metres long and situated in what was once a greenhouse. A view of the garden is included. Luxurious spa treatments are also offered for those who want a little more indulgence. We, however, are content, return to our room, and uncork a bottle of Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige Edizione 46 from Ca' del Bosco – a delightful Italian sparkling wine.
New to her post is Michelin-starred chef Viviana Varese, who has taken over responsibility for the kitchen. Her aim is to bring the fine Italian cuisine of the past back to life. The menu is classic, Italian, and in season. Truffles are a given, as is the pasta and the delicate Profiteroles.
Just like in many homes, the kitchen is a really nice place to hang out. Here you can pop in, wander around, chat with the staff, and even book yourself in for an ice cream making lesson.
The Egg & The Rive
Breakfast is also served from the kitchen, and some treats are laid out here, so you serve yourself – you'll find a wonderfully large selection of tasty cheeses here, for instance, as well as far too many delicious pastries. Anything that needs preparing can be ordered. The chickens roam freely in the garden, and if you'd like to collect a breakfast egg or two, just say the word.
Before we tuck into breakfast the next morning, we’ll head out into the garden for some morning exercise. A combination of stretching, breathing and yoga will be on offer. The movements awaken my body to life, and the magical view of the lake and mountain peaks beckons.
That we're going out on a boat after breakfast, one of those ridiculously stylish Rivas, makes this truly feel like the start of the world's best day, at the world's best hotel...
3 questions!
If I recommend you go here?
– Yes!
Is it the best hotel I've stayed at?
– Yes!
Is it worth the money?
– Depends on how many you have!
Check in
Book in advance, there are only 24 rooms available. New this year is that it will be open until January 5th, 2025, before closing down until the middle of March.
Price example
Junior suite in the villa in August for two people: 4,500 Euros, the same suite in October 2,000 Euros.
The Bellini Suite for two people €12,000.
www.passalacqua.it/en
