A royal splendor rests over Lake Garda and Riva del Garda. Empress Sissi sought out this place for her health. Today, elite athletes come to train year-round. We travel here to be surrounded by the waters and mountains, by history and the taste of Italy.

TWO-HOUR CAR JOURNEY from Milan the landscape opens up. Riva del Garda is located at the top of the lake in the north, almost trapped between the rock walls. The water cuts like a wedge between the rocks. In the distance the silhouettes of the Dolomites can be seen. Palm trees, lemon and olive trees grow along the promenade. Here the Alpine peaks meet the Mediterranean Sea. We check in at the Hotel Giardino Verdi, which is centrally located but a block from the water. From the rooftop bar we see how the mountains darken in the evening light. We are in the region Trentino, perhaps Italy's sportiest region. Sailing is possible here all year round. Windsurfing, kitesurfing, climbing, cycling and hiking are all popular activities. Nature is not
no longer a backdrop – it is a sports arena.

Riva del Garda is a small but historically charged town. During the 19th century, the town belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire while the areas to the south were Italian. Castles and watchtowers still watch over the bay, as reminders that whoever controls the lake controls the road between north and south. When darkness falls, we stroll through the cozy town to Leon d'Oro. Four dining rooms make the large restaurant intimate. I
Order spaghetti alle vongole. Garlic, salt and a glass of local wine with it. Then we sleep well. Tomorrow the wind awaits.

THE SHAPES YOU SEE ABOVE THE SURFACE ARE ALSO BELOW. THE LAKE IS OVER 300 METERS DEPTH AT TIMES

WHEN THE WIND PICKS UP
The sun is already high when we head towards Torbole. Here water and wind are not just natural phenomena, but a way of life. The old fishing village has become an international centre for sailing. We check in at Torbole Sailing Club – today we are going sailing! All sorts of different types of courses are organised here, from experienced sailors to beginners of all ages. We get a technical briefing and are encouraged to think about whether we want to sail or not.
– We have many America's Cup sailors who train here, says Gianfranco Tonelli, honorary chairman of Torbole Sailing Club and turns his gaze towards the lake. He has been a member of the club for a long time and there is no mistaking that he loves being here. He talks about the winds – the Pelèr in the morning and the Óra in the afternoon. He points to the outlines of the mountains.
– The shape you see above the surface is also there below. The lake is over 300 meters deep in places. At two o'clock we feel the wind pick up. The sails come to life. Life jackets on. It's time to get on board with Tommaso. I'm not a sailor. When we change sides, right becomes left. The boom sweeps past with a whining sound. Pump. Push. Release. Secure. The ropes burn and it's going fast. The water splashes. It's too sudden and suddenly completely obvious. We take turns at the helm. Optimist? Sure.

TWO TOP TOURS
Back in Riva del Garda we pass Piazza III Novembre, the square that bears the date when the area became Italian: November 3, 1918. We take the funicular up to the Bastione on Monte Rocchetta. The lift in Italian design is built in glass, and the feeling of going up is thrilling. After a few minutes we are at the top. The Bastione is a defensive fortress that was built to keep Napoleon's armies in the distance. Ruins on several levels, views of land and sea. Our idea was a drink at sunset but here the sun is setting on the other side and it is getting cold. We go down to start climbing again soon. Torre Apponale, the 12th century watchtower in the middle of the square. A wooden staircase with 165 steps takes us up 34 meters above the ground. We are ready for our drink, a Aperol Spritz at Piazza Catena tastes just as bitter and cool as it should. The dusk is blue with a thin streak of orange behind the mountains. Tonight's dinner is held at Palazzo Martini, a magnificent town hall, built in the 18th century. Here, some of the city's best chefs offer tastings of local ingredients.

– especially fish from the lake. Cocktails are also served created by the well-known bartender and mixologist, Leonardo Verones, who you can usually find at Rivabar. Grappa is his signature tune, and also an ingredient he often uses in his drinks.

THERE ARE BOATS FILLING, ALL WITH THE SAME SAILS. THE SUN IS SHINE, THE WATER IS GLITTERING, IT'S APPROACHING ELEVEN. THE BOATS ARE SWINGING AROUND. IT'S NOW ABOUT WEIGHT, WIND DIRECTION AND RESISTANCE IN THE WATER

SUNRISE & REGATTA
Yesterday's sunset didn't impress, it's time to experience the sunrise. We're out before seven. The sunrise is now making its entrance and the light is slowly becoming warm. The sky is glowing. The lake shows off shades of copper and
gold in reflections. Our plan now is a morning walk along the Strada Ponale, the old road from 1851 that clings along the mountainside and leads towards Lake Ledro. Count on three hours if you want to walk the whole way. Inside the tunnels it is damp and cool, outside the heat comes slowly. Steep cliffs, open views, something new awaits
behind every bend. Sailing is also on the program today. However, we will not sail ourselves but follow the RS Feva regatta, an international youth competition in two-man dinghies. We walk to Fraglia Vela Riva, the oldest sailing club on Lake Garda, founded in 1928. Here we take a look behind the scenes and meet Lorenzo Brando Chiavarini, Olympian and recent winner of CICO 2025. He now takes us out in a rib boat. There are a lot of boats, all with similar sails. The sun is shining, the water is sparkling, it's approaching eleven o'clock. The boats are turning around. It's now a matter of weight, wind direction and resistance in the water. It's time to start. We have the boats in line, and can see which ones are in a good position when the start goes.

– If you want to win, it's important to have friends who help you. Starting position is important, says Lorenzo. It's a philosophy that has taught him a lot, and something he also wants to convey to the children and young people in the club. Many of them spend a lot of time here. It's obvious that this competition involves the whole family – there's transportation, there's rides, there's cheering.

When we get back to the harbor, we look around. That sailing is a sustainable sport is something they really want to convey. They point out materials that are reused, solar panels that have been installed, and a water purification system. Capturing plastic from the lake is one goal, washing the boats as sustainably as possible is another. It's time for lunch.

HISTORY OF THE RESORT
Before we prepare our own lunch together with Stefano Rossi In the large open kitchen, housed in a new extension of the Hotel Lido Palace, we step into another era. At the end of the 19th century, Riva del Garda was marketed as an exclusive health resort. The climate is mild, the air is clear. The Empress Sisi placed great emphasis on her health and was a regular guest here. Here she devoted herself to long walks, horse riding in the mountains and trained with ascetic discipline. I tried to find a connection between Sisi and the stately Hotel Lido Palace, but I can't. The hotel opened in 1899, Sisi was murdered in 1898 in Geneva. But she was a faithful traveler when she got here and her presence put the place on the map for the Austrian aristocracy. Before we get down to business, we are each served a glass Trento Doc – in my opinion the best
sparkling wine in Italy. We take a seat along the kitchen counter and open the cookbook to now prepare: Ricotta Ravioli with sage, lard and caramelized lemon.
– Pour out the flour, and shape it into a circle with a hole in it, crack the eggs and let them end up in the middle. Now feed the flour with the eggs, says Stefano. I grab the fork and do as I'm told. Cooking together is fun.
The lunch is delicious and long, the amount of truffle on the ravioli is generous. We have settled down by the window. The part of the hotel we are in is a modern extension that nicely accompanies the classic.
Below us is an outdoor pool, indoors a whole spa. After lunch I ask:
– I get to swim, and I get to. After lunch I splash around in the pools, bathe in all the saunas. I get warm to the bone, drink tea and enjoy. I think about Sisi and her discipline, her quest for eternal youth and wondering what she had said about today's spa experience. As I leave the hotel and pass the Punta Lido gardens, the sun lurks behind the clouds, casting a soft light over the lake. Sailing families gather wetsuits and life jackets. The children's cheeks are flushed, they are tired. The parents coordinate, talk to friends and other parents. Interaction and
discipline in the air. Lake Garda still carries a royal sheen, but what remains is something else – you can always steer a wind, but you can never control it.

TRAVEL TO RIVA DEL GARDA
From Milan, 2 hours by car. Rovereto train station is 30 minutes from the city

TOURIST AGENCY WEBSITE
Offers plenty of information and tips. You can also submit a booking request here.
www.visittrentino.info/en