THE DREAM OF A LUXURIOUS AND ROMANTIC TRAIN JOURNEY COME TO LIFE ON BOARD THE COSTA VERDE EXPRESS. NOT ONLY ARE WE INVITED TO A TRAIN JOURNEY ALONG SPAIN'S GREEN COAST, THE COSTA VERDE, BUT ALSO TO A PEARL OF EXPERIENCES TO SELECTED PLACES ALONG THE JOURNEY. PLUS LOCALLY PRODUCED FOOD AND DRINK IN ABUNDANCE, BEFORE WE FALL Asleep UNDER FRESHLY MADE SHEETS.

OUR ROUTE IS NO MORE THAN 581 KILOMETERS, WHICH TAKES US THROUGH GALICIA, ASTURIAS, CANTABRIA AND THE BASQUE COUNTRY, ITSELF COULD BE COMPLETED IN JUST A FEW HOURS, BUT THEN THE EXPERIENCE WOULD BE A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT

To the sound of partying pilgrims we fell asleep and the next morning rolled our bags over the rain-soaked cobblestones towards the main square, Plaza del Obradoiro. Here we enter the Parador de los Reyes Católicos, a 5-star Parador, to check in and meet our fellow travelers. Together we then set out for a guided city walk. We start where we are, at the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, which has been a center for pilgrims since 1512. Both a hospital and accommodation were offered here. At the other end of the square is the cathedral with its two 75-meter-high towers.

The building itself is magnificent, but it is best known for the relics of the apostle James. It is hectic inside the cathedral and there are many of us, every year around 200,000 pilgrims finish their journey here. The thought that strikes me is that there should be a ban on mobile phones and cameras inside, then we would be able to see and experience more. We line up again to get close to the statue of James behind the altar. According to custom, he should be embraced and kissed. My lips meet the metal and the moment is over. After a 4-course lunch we head towards our train.

DAY 1
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA TO VIVEIRO
We board a more luxurious bus, this is part of the concept and will accompany us on our entire journey. The train stops on the platform in Ferrol. We are met by the staff who welcome us, and are shown into one of the four lounge cars where the well-chilled cava is poured into our glasses. They all toast each of us, the car is filled with clinking and anticipation as the train rolls away. Inside the compartment our luggage is waiting, so all we have to do is unpack. Hang in and lean back. The compartment itself contains a bed with a view through a large window at the foot end, a private bathroom with toilet and shower.

We have time to enjoy the view for a while before we arrive at our first stop, the town of Viveiro. The town is well known among Spaniards, and is one of the liveliest coastal towns. Early settlements of both Celts and Romans have been found here, and the Vikings also came here. What stands out above all today are the beautiful white glass verandas, built to let as much light as possible into the house. The region here is wetter, colder and has less sun than other Spanish regions. The veranda construction makes it possible to get in as much light and heat as possible. We return to the train to have our first dinner. The concept for both lunch and dinner offers 4-course meals and wine, always with local influences. The train is parked at the station and the night awaits.

in the coming days. The train picks up speed and this morning we eat breakfast while we travel along the coast. Today, a swim in the Atlantic is also on the program. The train stops and it's time for an excursion. Having our own "own" bus makes the program run smoothly while we really get to see many of the places we would otherwise just pass by. We stop and take a look at the view over the city of Ribadeo, which was once an important trading city. But before we get there, it's time for a swim at the unique beach of Las Catedrales.

A beach where the rock formations are cave-shaped, the place is unique and well-visited, well-visited to the point that a cap has been imposed on how many visitors are allowed to come each day. As a ”regular” bather, you need to book a ticket in advance to be one of the 4,800 visitors today. Down on the beach, we encounter the waves of the Atlantic. A little chilly, and bubbling, I note as I jump into one after the other. Wow! This is wonderful. Our next stop is a visit to Ribadeo.

We get a map and some tips before we set off in small groups on a journey of discovery. Several of us meet up in the square where there is a market today. Here we find, among other things, freshly caught oysters and locally brewed beer. Susanne from Germany orders a beer that she enjoys in big gulps. I myself let a few oysters slide down. Mmm what a day! It's time to sit back for today's 4-course lunch, at a Parador in the city, before we return to the train. 

Eating this much and for this long is a challenge at first. But you can get used to it. However, it's not entirely wrong to rest in the compartment for a while afterwards.
The day is rounded off with another 4-course meal and after this we are treated to some piano in one of the bar cars. The train parks for the night at the station in Oviedo, not entirely ideal, here you need earplugs to be able to sleep. This particular stop is planned to be changed for next season, it is a matter of permission.

DAY 2
VIVEIRO TO OVIEDO
The next morning at eight o'clock the staff wakes us up by walking along the narrow corridor outside our compartments, while ringing a school bell. Jingle-jingle. It's a pleasant way to wake up. Costa Verde Express has 23 luxurious compartments with room for a maximum of 46 passengers. On our journey, many are travelling on their own and therefore we are a small group who will get to know each other well over the coming days. 

The train sets off and this morning we eat breakfast while we travel along the coast. Today, a swim in the Atlantic is also on the program. The train stops and it's time for an excursion. Having our own "own" bus makes the program run smoothly while we really get to see many of the places we would otherwise just pass by.

We stop and take in the view of the city of Ribadeo, which was once an important trading town. But before we get there, it's time for a swim at the unique Las Catedrales beach. A beach where the rock formations are cave-shaped, the place is unique and well-visited, well-visited to the point that a cap has been imposed on how many visitors are allowed each day. As a "regular" bather, you need to book a ticket in advance to be one of today's 4,800 visitors. 

Down on the beach we encounter the waves of the Atlantic. A bit chilly, and bubbling I note as I jump into one after the other. Wow! This is wonderful. Our next stop is a visit to Ribadeo.

We get a map and some tips before we set off in small groups on a journey of discovery. Several of us meet up in the square where there is a market today. Here we find, among other things, freshly caught oysters and locally brewed beer. Susanne from Germany orders a beer that she enjoys in big gulps. I myself let some oysters
slip down. 

Mmm what a day! It's time to sit back for today's 4-course lunch, at a Parador in the city, before we return to the train. Eating this much and for this long is a challenge at first. But you can get used to this too. However, it's not entirely wrong to rest in the compartment for a while afterwards.
The day is rounded off with another 4-course meal and after this we are treated to some piano in one of the bar cars. The train parks for the night at the station in Oviedo, not entirely ideal, here you need earplugs to be able to sleep. This particular stop is planned to be changed for next season, it is a matter of permission.

DAY 4
LLANES TO CABEZON DE LA SAL
Klingeli-klingeli, another morning we wake up, ready for another adventure. On the program today is a trip to the Picos de Europa, which is Spain's largest national park. The journey up the mountains goes along narrow winding roads where every now and then a cow makes us have to stop. It is breathtaking, the clouds lie heavy and the fog floats below. Our visit begins with a visit to the sacred cave in Covadonga where we light a candle. The cave is natural and was not originally a Christian place, but it was here that the Christians defeated the Muslim army, a battle that is considered the beginning of the introduction of Christianity in Spain.

We linger up here, and the clouds disperse. We look all the way down to that lake. Here in Covadonga, cider is also produced, and our guide shows how to pour it in the classic way. The distance between the glass and the bottle should be maximum, dot in the glass and up with the cider jet, it foams in the glasses and it tastes really good. It's a workout! Today's lunch stands out, and is served at the Michelin restaurant Corral del Indianu in Llanes. It's delicious, playful and beautiful. We have time for a short trip into the city before we return to the train.

It's a countdown – it's almost time for us to meet our sister train El Transcantabrico. There's a huge commotion on the platform, the staff hug each other, we passengers peek curiously at each other. The moment is short and it's time for departure.

For dinner, ravioli with black truffles is served, and a woman walks around the tables playing the violin. Even worse! The train trundles on to Cabezón de la Sal – where we stop for the night.

DAY 5
CABEZÓN DE LA SAL TO SANTANDER
Every evening, during dinner, we have been served tomorrow's program to be prepared. Today we have a little extra cultural focus, and we start in the caves of Altamira in the city of Santillana del Mar in the Cantabrian region. These caves are considered a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and were discovered in 1879. Excavations showed that the cave was inhabited as early as 33,600 years before Christ. 930 cave paintings have been found here, dating back more than 10,000 years. The most common motifs are animals, and the occasional human, often in the form of hunters.

I would have liked to stay here for a long time and learn more, but that will have to be another time. We have some time to stroll around the town of Santillana del Mar. There are plenty of shops selling souvenirs and Ciderias, cider houses, here. The low tide means that it is possible to walk along the beach, so we take that path away towards another lunch. 

The thought strikes me – we are really being spoiled these days. I talk to a couple who are on the trip, they are celebrating 50 years of marriage, and are now in Europe to meet both their children and to enjoy this trip. After lunch it is time for another train journey, this time to Santander. A city tour and a dinner in town, for a change. The reason turns out to be that the staff has arranged a closing party for us on board. Laughter, games and entertainment conclude our trip. We linger, time has flown by so fast.

DAY 6
SANTANDER TO BILBAO
The train starts even before the alarm clock. Klingeliklingeli, it feels a little sad to wake up like this for the last day. We pack up, have breakfast and say goodbye to the train and our fantastic staff. We end on a high note, a visit to the Guggenheim Museum is on the program. A fantastic museum where art makes me happy. Those who don't have time to go inside can see from the outside, among other things, Louise Bourgeois' nine-meter-high spider Maman and Jeff Koons' blooming Puppy. Inside, a fine collection of purchased works and installations awaits, Richard Serra's The Matter of Time is one of my favorites. 

During our visit, we also got to experience a larger collective exhibition by Yayoi Kusama, who has recently been a bit more relevant in the form of collaborations with Louise Vuitton where she put dots on their iconic bags. Here she puts her dots on completely different things. And here I end my fantastic journey by putting.

BOOK A TRIP:
The trip takes place between May and October, and goes between Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, or in the opposite direction. The price for 2 people for 6 days, including everything, is 9,000 Euros.
www.trencostaverdeexpress.co