It's impossible to defend yourself – the Philippines is a country that encompasses a great deal. A large population, a varied history, and weather and politics that leave no one unmoved. At the same time, we find the most beautiful of beaches, the world's best diving, and those magical encounters with people you will never forget.
Arriving at Manila is, to say the least, tumultuous; the airport is absolutely teeming with people. The country has 113.9 million inhabitants, of whom more than one in ten live here in Manila, which also makes the city the most densely populated in all of Southeast Asia. It's late in the evening so the journey to the hotel is relatively quick – the traffic here is, as it turns out, at the very least sluggish.
Cars, mopeds, cyclists and minibuses in the form of so-called jeepneys are trying to get through. An hour this way. An hour that way.
After a perfectly magnificent breakfast at the hotel Dusit Thani We go out to meet our guide who will show us the city. He is an hour late as he got caught in traffic and should have left home considerably earlier. Traffic is a big problem which they are working on, for example, the railway is currently being expanded. Unfortunately, the work simultaneously means that traffic is even worse at the moment. Cars, mopeds, cyclists and minibuses in the form of so-called jeepneys are trying to get through. An hour here. An hour there.
A colourful history
The pulse is high, traffic is intense, and the sights we are shown are primarily historical monuments. The country's history is chequered, and a few days later in a park on the island of Dumagete, we see groups of schoolchildren re-enacting various dramatic scenes from history. This is part of their history lessons and also a way for them to learn to present to a group. Spain and the USA are the countries that have left their mark here. Spain introduced Catholicism, and the country is now the only Christian country in Asia. American army vehicles have been converted into cool, pimped-out bus taxis, known as Jeepneys.
The beer San Miguel I didn't know it originated here, but it was here that it began to be brewed in 1890 and has since been counted as the country's national drink. Manila and I don't quite click, but during dinner at Casa Roses, which is located right next to Malacañang Palace, I learn about the art scene in Manila and briefly note that it piques my interest. Manila is the hub of the contemporary art scene in Asia, and it hosts the annual Art Fair Philippines. Additionally, there are numerous galleries and museums of note such as the Ateneo Art Gallery, Ayala Museum, Museum of Contemporary Art and Design, and the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, among others.
Time for island life
It's time to leave Manila and embrace island life. The Philippines is an island nation, comprising 7,100 islands, of which approximately 880 are inhabited. Among the uninhabited islands are also so-called Naked Islands – islands made entirely of sand. The island nation also boasts hundreds of volcanoes, 20 of which are active. The landscape offers further more fairytale-like beaches, waterfalls, lagoons, and a whole world awaits discovery beneath the waves – the Philippines is the world's best destination for divers! The landing gear is lowered, and we step out onto the new airport of Bohol island.
Bohol is the perfect holiday island, slightly larger than Gotland, offering the chance to combine lazy days on white sandy beaches with exciting excursions and activities. On the way to our hotel, we'll take the opportunity to pop into The Bellevue Resort, A 5-star place, as you'd expect for anyone wanting all the luxury together. Children with the kids' club feed the fish in the pool, music is playing, and the hotel's beach is long, white, and well-raked. The rooms are super-luxurious and the pool is turquoise blue. Simply really good.
A drink and a sunset
But we'll continue and hop back into the car, cross a bridge and arrive at Panglao, where we'll check into Amorita Resort which is located one staircase up from the popular Alona Beach. The beach is long and beautiful, and we'll be treated to sunrises and sunsets that prove to be utterly magical. My room is upstairs and has a balcony with a view of the greenery, and you can hear the sea when it's quiet and still. Right now, however, it's quite noisy as a man is blowing fallen leaves together. It's humid and lovely and warm. We'll have time to meet up for a drink at sunset; the boats that were out during the day have now returned to shore and make lovely silhouettes in all the photos being taken.
The next morning, we managed to see the sun rise behind misty clouds before setting our sights on Chocolate Hills. The chocolate hills, numbering 1,268, are 30 to 50 metres high and grassy – during the summer the grass here turns brown and they look like chocolate – hence the name.
There are many legends that tell different stories about how the hills came to be. Among them, it is told of two giants who threw stones at each other. It is also told of a giant who fell in love and whose dearest died, and who then is said to have cried rivers that formed these hills, our guide Joseph Rivera Abaloyan tells us as we drive into the area.
The hills are made of limestone, and we find quite a lot of fossils here too. I walk up the 214 steps to the viewpoint, and try to take a photo. It's not really working, the hills are hills and utterly magical but don't quite capture on film. Instead, I just have to lean back and enjoy, let my gaze wander, 360 degrees, the hills are everywhere.
Philippines Number of islands: 7,100, of which 880 are inhabited Population 113.9 million Peak season October to May Language The official languages are Filipino and English, in addition to 170 other languages, 12 of which are regional.
River cruising is hot
It's time for lunch, which today will be combined with being enjoyed during a river cruise on the Loboc River. Eating on board both during the day and in the evening is popular, and our guide admits that some days she can eat both lunch and dinner here.
During peak season, it will probably be at least once a day, says xx and laughs a little.
The riverboats are lined up, we step aboard. The buffet is laid out, the music plays, and we glide along the green river. Pleasant, simple, and delicious. Before we turn back, we are treated to a small show on the riverbank; those who wish can get off and have a dance with the entertainment group.
Cute ghost animals
Our final stop will be a visit to the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary where we will get to see the small, endangered tarsier. The tiny animals are around eight centimetres long and weigh about 80 grams – their eyes are enormous, and they are easily likened to children's cuddly toys. It has started pouring down, but we make our way into the undergrowth. They have now sought shelter among the bushes here; we are allowed to take photos – though not with flash. They are difficult to spot; they are shy, but they thrive here and are breeding. The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary receives financial support from both the state and some eco-organisations; the work they do is important. As visitors, we get to see, but not disturb.
THE SMALL ANIMALS ARE AROUND EIGHT CENTIMETRES LONG, AND WEIGH APPROXIMATELY 80 GRAMS – THEIR EYES ARE ENORMOUS AND THEY ARE EASILY COMPARED TO CHILDREN'S TEDDY BEARS.
Back at the hotel, dinner is eaten, the conversations are flowing. The waves are crashing against the shore – it's a starry night. I've managed to book a late massage – outdoors in a cabana under the stars. Without further description, I can briefly state – if you have the opportunity to book a similar experience – do it!
We're swaying ashore
It's time to change islands, this time we're taking a speedboat, which isn't particularly fast due to the high waves. But we're getting there; it's bumpy, and the big challenge is docking in the middle of Dumaguete – the capital of Negros Oriental. We are not the first to set foot here; the Spanish landed and colonised the island as early as 1565. Americans and Japanese have also been here and left their mark. Siliman University, the first American university in Asia, was founded here in 1901. Behind the university, you can glimpse Siliman University Church, which was consecrated two years earlier. The fact that it still has a sea view is part of the regulations – it was important that those arriving by sea could easily find their way to the church.
Today Dumaguete is known as ”The City of Gentle People”. We'll take a short tour around the city, visiting, among other places, the large food market Tsianggi. Here we'll sample lots of fruit and various kinds of sticky rice, with and without chocolate. It turns out our guide will manage to get us to try most of the cakes and sweets the island has to offer. The green mango we dip in chilli is super tasty.
Under the surface
If Bohol is the perfect family destination, then we've now ended up on an island where teenagers will also get their fill. A whole world awaits beneath the surface of the sea to be discovered. This time we had too little time and the weather didn't quite allow us to get underwater, but I'm taking the opportunity to ask a few questions Roni Ben-Aharon, hotel reservation manager Atlantis Dive Resort where we checked into cosy rooms nestled in the greenery, naturally with a beachfront location. Diving is the name of the game here, and regulators, buoyancy aids, and various other diving equipment are found all over the place.
Tell me, why is the diving so good here and what can you expect to see underwater?
The Philippines are located in the heart of the Coral Triangle, an area within which 75 percent of the world's coral reefs are found. Here you will also find half of all coral fish, and regarding turtles, you will find six of the seven species that exist in the world. All of this means that every time you put your head beneath the surface of the water, you will see much more than anywhere else in the world!
What is your absolute favourite place for diving?
– Apo Island!, a small island off Negros Oriental coast. The island is less than a square kilometre and, since 1980, has been surrounded by the Philippines' first marine protected area. Nearly 1,000 people live and work here, without electricity or running water. Today, there are 650 different species of fish and 400 different species of coral. This makes the area the best in the world for viewing corals in particular. The reefs are healthy and colourful. Even if you only snorkel, you can see barracuda, sea snakes and hawksbill turtles, among other things.
What is the difference in experience for an advanced and an inexperienced diver?
Both categories of divers can enjoy diving in Dauin and Apo Island. The main difference is the depth you dive to, but there's something exciting to see at all depths, so even snorkellers will find plenty to enjoy.
Besides diving, what else can you do on the island?
There are plenty, Manjuvod Sand Bar, Bais Dolphin Watch, Casaroro Falls, Twin Waterfalls, Red Rock Hot Springs, Balanan Lake and Twin Lakes. A lovely mix of hikes, and hot baths.
Our programme included both a snorkelling trip and a boat trip to see whales. However, the weather had other ideas, and it picked up somewhat. The sky turned black, and the waves rolled in. The air was still, and not a single star was visible. Roni also mentions that many who come here to dive, due to the weather, choose to stay a bit longer. The Philippines has been awarded Best Diving Destination in the World several times, including at the World Travel Awards in Oman.
Our journey continues to Cebu where we will meet up with the part of our group that has been on Siargao and surfing, both on waves and around various islands. They have also been swimming in Mangpupungko Tidal Pool, a magical pool that fills up with the tide. We manage to see a guitar factory in Cebu and compare our experiences.
The Philippines offers many surprises, and the nature there is magical, and that's without even mentioning or visiting White Beach on Boracay, which has been named the world's best beach several times. In other words, there are countless reasons to return to this dramatic and incredibly beautiful country.
