From June to August, Pärnu takes on the title ’Estonia's Official Summer City’. The pace picks up, the stands fill, and the summer guests enjoy. A lovely mix of long sandy beaches, fantastic hotels, spa treatments, playgrounds, nature experiences, and delicious food awaits here – not just in the summer!
Ciderhouse by Jaani Hanso The perfect pit stop if you're travelling to Pärnu via Tallinn. Here you'll find guided tours, tastings, and shopping. Book in advance on the website: ciderhouse.ee
Today Pärnu has around 50,000 inhabitants, but every summer the number of people in the city almost doubles. The horseshoe-shaped sandy beach is central to the holiday experience; it's shallow here, making it easy to keep an eye on the children. Another positive effect is that the water warms up quickly. Tourists have been coming here for a long time, and in 1838 the town's first spa establishment was opened, and Pärnu began to develop into a popular spa town.
It is currently possible to fly directly to Pärnu from Stockholm. However, when VOYAGE checked in to get a taste of what the city has to offer, we travelled via Tallinn and were picked up at the airport. A journey of approximately 1.5 hours if you do it directly.
A pit stop
But of course, it is also possible to add a stop along the way. Some in our group managed a visit to the local cider producer Jaani Hanso.
– We received very good guidance here, and they described how they produce cider using the champagne method, says Stefan Holmström, representative for Visit Estonia in Sweden.
It's also possible to just stop by and pick up a few different ciders of various kinds. However, if you'd like a guided tasting of different cider varieties, pre-booking is recommended. Many of those who attended the tasting highly praised the rhubarb cider in particular, and the so-called Ice Cider, which is made in winter from apple juice that is frozen before fermentation begins.
I'm travelling directly myself, to meet Ave Lääne from Visit Pärnu and have lunch at Café Pastoraat, which is adjacent to the familiar and also luxurious boutique hotel where I will later check in, Hotel Rosenplänter. Ave grew up in the city himself and enjoys it here:
– In the summer, Pärnu becomes the centre of Estonian tourism, and visitors come here to relax. We have trendy nightclubs, various festivals, fairs and street markets. On a sunny day, 10,000 visitors mingle here, she says, while admitting that she likes spring best, when it’s a little calmer here.
Exotic treatment
After a super tasty pineapple dessert with meringues, it's time for Ave to drop me off at the beachfront. Hedon Spa & Hotel for an exciting spa treatment. The building we see here today was built in 1926 in a neoclassical style, replacing the previous bathhouse which was destroyed in a fire during the First World War.
Hedon has since then become a landmark in the city. Originally, warm sea baths were offered here during the summer and hot saunas in the winter. Today, the facilities are divided into two parts: one for bathing and one for treatments. I have the privilege of being booked for a slightly more exotic treatment called: Journey to North Africa. This is a two-hour treatment from the French spa brand Cinq Mondes, which includes a steam bath, a mud wrap with two different muds, and a long, beneficial massage. My therapist, Agnes, is full of energy and mischief, and encourages me to take on the role of an African queen.
– You are queen! Her energy is infectious and I go from tired and stressed to elated, relaxed and happy.
Tips! This summer, you can fly directly with SAS from Arlanda to Pärnu Airport until 16th August. Maximum holiday in minimum time, simply put. sas.se Visit Pärnu Here you will find information for your trip! visitparnu.com Visit Estonia A curated and inspiring travel guide for your trip to Pärnu. visitestonia.com/sv
By bicycle
It's time to discover the city, which is best done from a bicycle saddle. Renting a bike is easy, we pick up our bikes at Tõruke Bicycle Rental who are down by the beach, I get help adjusting the saddle before we pedal off. The cycle paths and walkways here are super nice and are extended every year. Something else that strikes me is that the playgrounds are magnificent – they are a bit bigger and more imaginative than the ones we're used to at home – the problem could, however, be that the children will want to stay here for a long time! We stop almost in the middle of the horseshoe-shaped beach:
– Here in the warm water, those who want a quiet, warm bath can enjoy themselves. A little further away, the sea has a bit more pace, and this is where we have our surf club, Aloha Surf, which offers a variety of water activities with a focus on different types of surfing, says Veronika Meibaum, my cycling companion and guide with Pärnu Private Tours.
A green & blue city
Every summer, a blue flag is hoisted on the beach – Blue Flag is an international environmental award that shows the bathing beach is managed in an environmentally friendly way and that the water is clean. We carry on and approach the magnificent 600-metre long ”Brewery promenade” This is situated right by the sea. The idea is that as a visitor here, you'll be able to explore the unique ecosystem here, with its unique fauna and flora. A walk that is also accessible for both prams and wheelchairs.
A little further on, we see the town cows, ’The City Cows’ who come here between May and October. They help nature by preserving the rare coastal meadow's biodiversity.
Down by the water, there are also two 8-metre-high observation towers that are popular with both birdwatchers and those who simply want to enjoy the view from here. At the top, there are pictures of a selection of the birds and plants you can see here. The towers are built in a shape so that they are stable even when the wind is howling.
Some fantastic hotels • The boutique hotel Rosenpläter • The newly built Wasa Resort • The classic Raannahotell • Villa Ammende
Fine architecture
We then step a little closer towards the city itself, which offers a great deal of history. Just looking at the architecture is fun, from Art Nouveau to Functionalism. How the map looked when Sweden held power here is particularly interesting to examine – it takes the form of a star. Nowadays, however, only parts of the city wall remain, and the only city gate is Tallinn Gate.
It's time for me to check into Hotel Rosenplänter, housed in a beautiful building from 1696. After an extensive renovation, it reopened in 2019. It's been three relatively quiet years, and the feeling here is that it's truly top-notch! In total, they offer 13 rooms decorated in light tones, with natural wood being part of the concept. All rooms are different, and two of them feature a bathtub in the middle of the bedroom itself – cheeky!
Before it's time to sum up the day, there will be dinner at Villa Wesset. The atmosphere is top-notch, the food good, and the service familiar. The music plays, the sun sets.
They had come to Pärnu to find the place where their daughter was to be married – they didn't find it and therefore had to build it themselves.
Breakfast in bed
The next morning begins with breakfast in bed – at Hotel Rosenplänter, there are no other options. And one must admit that this is a perfect way to start the day with that ultimate feeling of holiday luxury.
The rain is hanging in the air, but as my morning agenda offers a hot tub and treatment, this doesn't matter. I'm checking into Estonia Resort Hotel & Spa and soon end up in one of the outdoor bubble pools – lovely in combination with the rain. There is also a smoke sauna here, not quite the exotic one I'd wanted to try, but it gives a taste of an experience that is alluring. It smells of tar.
I'm dipping in and out of the pools and saunas, enjoying the fine facilities spread out here. There are many different saunas and pools, even a children's sauna where cartoons are shown. A large part of the treatments have an Estonian theme. I'm trying one Estonian Power Tree Body Treatment. And is ’whipped’ over the body with a twig-broom and then massaged with carrot oil. A bit of birdsong to go with it and the day has started well.
Rooms and apartments
Later, we'll pop into the newly opened Wasa Resort, which has been here since 1938 but has now been rebuilt. The hotel got its original name from the boat that took visitors to Pärnu. The hotel is renowned for its fantastic food. Add to this a fresh spa and a sauna area perfect for the whole family. The main sauna is actually situated directly above the pool – so even if you're sweating it out, you can keep an eye on the family.
Here too, there's an opportunity to have a spa treatment, and it's the luxurious French brand Payot that's offered – the prices are high for being here, but compared to Swedish prices, not at all.
Before dinner, we'll have a drink at Villa Ammende, built in an organic Art Deco style. When we cycled past here before, Kristina told us that the hotel was built by a German family. They had come to Pärnu to find the place where their daughter would get married – they didn't find it and therefore had to build it themselves. Stepping in here is a journey back in time. A crackling fire, a couple in love, a cocktail in a glass…
Lunch with a sea view
We're travelling in both place and time to dine at the Rannahotel, situated directly on the beach. The iconic hotel opened in 1937 and was designed by the architect Olev Siimaa, with its beachfront location, it is unique in the city and welcomes guests in 55 rooms, of which 11 are suites.
– We are proud that we have hosted several of the country's presidents here. However, we are waiting for our current president Alar Karis to check in, says Jana Palm, the hotel's marketing manager, who is our host for the evening.
We'll see two of the largest suites, both with magnificent lake views, and the feeling of being on a ship is palpable. We head down the stairs, and I manage to glance at a few photographs showing how bathing life was lived here during the 18th and 19th centuries. Back then, it was all about breathing fresh sea air and about modesty. Dressed from head to toe, guests sought shelter in basket chairs that almost resemble bird's nests.
The restaurant offers magnificent views and top-class food, something it has also been recognised for in the White Guide. I'm having a refreshing gazpacho myself, but the octopus is the most stylish dish. For the main course, cod with shiitake mushrooms and a lemongrass sauce.
Out in nature
The days are flying by and it's time for a hike along the Tolkuse bog trail, located half an hour's drive from central Pärnu. Here we meet our guide Märt Kose, who will take us through the varied nature. Into the forest, up the 18-metre-high observation tower, with views over the area and all the way to Pärnu beach, and then on a walk along the boardwalks that take us across the magical bogland. Märt points out different plants and tells us about them. He loves the area and often brings groups here. I take the opportunity to ask when he thinks the nature here is at its most beautiful:
The most magical thing is to come here and experience the dawn and watch the mist lift.
Best golf course
There are various ways to experience nightlife here and our fellow traveller Martin Dahlström from the company Out of Bounds has headed off a little earlier than the rest of us to make it in time to play at Pärnu Bay Golf Links. He says:
– It was really fantastic to go down a small road in the forest and suddenly the course opens up and the magnificent clubhouse appears.
Martin explains that what he liked about the course was its well-designed holes that are fun to play. And the fact that the entire course is built on a sandy base certainly helps. Furthermore, the course was excellent, with smooth and fine greens and fairways, and it's also incredibly beautiful. It's not difficult to understand why Martin sells trips here.
Lunch on the farm
After our adventures in the green, we meet at Nurka Farm, an eccentric B&B near the golf course. Here we are welcomed by the owner, Katrin Virkus, who tells us about her journey in transforming the farm into a summer hotel:
– I am only open during the summer months. I get requests from guests who want to visit in the winter, but they want to pay less – at a time when everything is more expensive.
Here there is a wood-fired sauna with 100 years under its belt, unique rooms where the decor is mostly period-appropriate but mixed with modern. We are treated to lunch, well-prepared and delicious. The absolute best is the tasty Swiss roll, I manage a sizeable piece before it's time to head home.
On the way to the airport, I realise I'll make sure to return. I haven't yet experienced the smoke sauna, and life on the UNESCO-listed island of Kihnu appeals to me.
Pärnu private tours Book a guided tour to get to know the city quickly and easily. Preferably from the saddle of a bicycle. parnutours.com
Pärnu Bay Golf Links A really fine golf course awaits here, which for some is the main ingredient of a trip here. Parnubaygolf.com
Michelin has checked in
Estonia is proud to have its first two Michelin-starred restaurants! They are both located in Tallinn: NOA Chef's Hall and 180° by Matthias Diether.
Michelin recently presented its first edition in Estonia. The guide recommends 31 restaurants. Two with one star each, five with the Bib Gourmand award, and two with a Michelin Green Star. The reasoning is as follows:
Noa's Chef Hall
“Eleganta NOA’s Chef Hall is located in the same beautiful building as restaurant NOA, just outside the centre of Tallinn. Here, guests are welcomed with an aperitif in the romantic lounge, which offers a fantastic view of Tallinn Bay and the Gulf of Finland. The open kitchen is the heart of the restaurant. Chefs Roman Sidorov and Tõnis Siigur create the creative 7-course menu that provides an experience from start to finish. Luxurious ingredients are the focus here, whether it's Norwegian scallops, Canadian lobster or local products of the highest quality.”
Address: Ranna road 3, Pirita district, Tallinn
180° by Matthias Diether, Tallinn
“Högklassiga 180° by Matthias Diether is located in Tallinn's trendy Noblessner port district. The restaurant is named after the 180-degree view of the open kitchen. Here, you'll be welcomed into the delicious lounge and served an aperitif and tasty snacks. The menu consists of a tasting menu of either four (Flavours of 180 Degrees) or six courses (Matthias’ Inspiration). The restaurant's founder, Michelin chef Matthias Diether from Germany, is responsible for ambitious and modern cooking that also showcases impressive contrasts in taste and texture. He pays great attention to detail.”
Address: 4 Staapli Street, Põhja-Tallinn District, Tallinn More info:
visitestonia.com/sv/info-omestland/ michelinstjarnor-har-kommittill- estland
Here, guests are welcomed with an aperitif in the romantic lounge, which offers a fantastic view of Tallinn Bay and the Gulf of Finland.
