Join us on a journey through time in left-hand traffic. Where, of course, the three standard ingredients are:
GREEN HILLS, GUINNESS AND CASTLES ARE INCLUDED. WE BEGIN IN THE GRAVE CHAMBERS AND THEN TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THREE CASTLES WHICH HAVE ALL FOUND THEIR OWN WAY INTO THE FUTURE.
By Yvonne Gull
AS I THIMBLE Leaving the airport in a hire car, equipped with an older version of GPS to guide me to Brú na Bóinne in the Boyne Valley, the thought strikes me that I should have chosen an automatic transmission car. Changing gears with my left hand isn't exactly straightforward for me, quite simply. But we'll leave that fact
thus and navigate instead towards the beginning of this story.
Boyne Valley is an area just outside Dublin where not only 9,000 years of history await, but where we also find ourselves in the midst of a magical green landscape filled with activities and sights. A place worth discovering, close to the capital Dublin but at the same time a journey back in time.
Despite the slightly troublesome GPS, I end up in the car park of Brú na Bóinne and walks right into an exhibition. It's interesting and makes me want to see more. Unfortunately, it's only possible to visit the places with a guide, but it turns out I'm in luck. They've had a cancellation, in three hours. I ask if it's worth the wait.
– Yes, absolutely! Says the woman selling tickets.
The sound of the rituals and ceremonies held here in honour of the dead can be conjured in the imagination.
WORTH THE WAIT
A few hours later, I cross the River Boyne, which will flow with us on our journey, and pass through a wooded area. Around 20 of us board the bus. We are in the largest archaeological landscape in Ireland with 154 discovered monuments, all gathered around an area where the river makes a large bend. The area is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site and the burial sites here built 3,200 years before Christ, meaning that they are older than the pyramids in Egypt.
The most well-known are the three largest burial sites; Knowth, Newgrange and Dowth – these are the most important Neolithic sites in the world, where we also find the world's largest collection of megalithic art. On our tour, we will visit two of these. The bus will now first drop us off at the first one, Knowth.
Magical Hills of Grass
The location is magical, the main building itself, also called Site 1, is a grassy mound resting on a stone base. The mound is 11 metres high and oval in shape with a diameter of 67 metres. Unique to this is that it has two entrances on opposite sides which lead to the centre with their own burial chambers. The megalithic symbols are carved into the stones on the walls. Site 1 is in turn surrounded by 17 smaller mounds. However, not much has been preserved here as the area has been inhabited and used by many different peoples since. The sound of the rituals and ceremonies held here dedicated to the dead can be conjured in the imagination. The sun shines brightly and we continue through the area. Our next stop is Newgrange.
The similarity between these two places is perhaps primarily their function and purpose, but also their size. Newgrange is circular, with a diameter of 85 metres and a height of 13 metres. One difference is that here we clearly see the stones as part of the expression. Black granite and white quartz in fine patterns, and 97 large limestone blocks that form the base the building rests upon.
A STREAM OF SUN
Here, visitors can step inside the burial chamber. The entrance can be glimpsed behind two stones, one standing upright and the other lying flat. And here we enter the magical world of the sun. This is because during the winter solstice, the shadow of the front stone reaches the middle of the back one. Even more magical is the phenomenon that can be experienced on the same day 19 metres inside the burial chamber when a ray of sunlight enters and illuminates the darkness for 17 minutes. We get to experience this in an artificial rendition, as our guide lights a lamp that imitates what it looks like.
There is no doubt that the sun was important, but the knowledge in creating this phenomenon continues to baffle us. I find myself incredibly grateful that I waited for this experience. A visit I highly recommend, so book your tickets well in advance.
A visit to Ireland should, as per the template, include three ingredients: green hills, Guinness, and castles. So, it would have been fitting to end my day with a Guinness. But the mere thought makes me dizzy; I remember a magnificent taste and a thick foam. A Google search away, I also get the information that Guinness is one of those beers that gives you the worst hangover, though there is now also an alcohol-free version. The latter is guaranteed to be the best choice if, like me, you'll be steering yourself around the winding roads, on the left-hand side.
In Ireland, there are around 30,000 castles, the majority of which were built between the 12th and 15th centuries. Due to attacks from Vikings and Norman They were sometimes built in the form of forts, thereafter for administrative needs, their own castle was also highly valued among high-ranking military personnel and members of the court, such as lords, barons, and other individuals in high positions.
THE CASTLE OF ROCK AND ROLL
My first castle visit is at Slane Castle in County Meath, which is considerably ”new”, dated 1785. I make my way to the cellar entrance, where there is both a bar and a restaurant. A dishevelled party laughs and eats breakfast. Yesterday they had a party here at the castle. My guide for the day greets me and places me in front of a video. Hmm. This is exciting, I think sarcastically. But afterwards, I conclude that the film was indeed both interesting and worth watching. I hadn't realised I'd checked into the Castle of Rock'n'Roll.
The Conyngham family still lives here today and owns the castle. The family originally came from Scotland and moved to Ireland in 1611. In 1703, they bought 1,500 acres here in what is considered the heart of the Boyne Valley. With the land also comes the story that this was where St Patrick lit the Easter fire, after which he was called to the High King of Tara, and Ireland converted to Christianity. A historical romance between King George IV and Elizabeth, the first Marchioness of Conyngham, has also been hosted at the castle. And it is believed that the King's visit to the castle in 1821 is the reason why the road between Dublin and Slane Castle is one of the straightest roads in Ireland, designed so that
His journey would be quick. Modern history begins with Henry Lord Mountcharles being called by his father, who could no longer make ends meet:
– Come home and help out, otherwise I'll have to sell!
The year was 1974, and Henry Mountcharles was living life to the full, with music a part of it. He chose to return home, and music would become the key to the future. In 1981, it was time for the very first outdoor concert here at the castle. A stage was built right next to Slane Castle down by the River Boyne, and Thin Lizzy took to the stage. With the capacity to host 80,000 visitors, a concept that would save the castle was born.
Over the years, concerts with some of the world's absolute biggest bands such as The Rolling Stones, Madonna, Queen, Robbie Williams, David Bowie, U2, Eminem, Bruce Springsteen and Metallica have played here. There are many stories surrounding the friendships that were formed. For example, Henry Mountcharles invited U2 a few years later to record their album ”The Unforgettable Fire” in the castle's Drawing Room where we are presently. My guide offers a history of Henry Mountcharles' son Alex Conyngham that took place here.
Few places in Ireland have more medieval buildings
– The Rolling Stones We were visiting and had checked in here, and the next day Alex Conyngham couldn't find his toy car. It turned out Mick Jagger had taken it out for a joyride around the castle...
Ten years after the first concert, the castle burns down, a third of the building is destroyed and the rest is severely damaged. Over the following ten years, the castle was restored. The economic reality has led the Conyngham family to focus on their business. While the castle is a family residence, currently for Alex Conyngham and his family, it has now been opened up for weddings, conferences and other gatherings. It is also possible to check in here at the castle for a night or two in four rooms on the first floor. However, it is emphasised that this is not a hotel but a private home.
To all of this, in 2017, the obvious Irish ingredient was added to the business: whiskey. Together with The Brown family Alex Conyngham opened Slane Whiskey Distillery in the former stables. The grain used is grown on the estate, and the water, which is soft with the right balance of minerals, is drawn from the River Boyne. You can visit the distillery, do a tasting, and even book a cocktail-making lesson. If you're then unable to drive, a tip is to check into the family's glamping site, Rock Farm Slane, a little way off.
THE FORTRESS, A FILM SET
There was no whiskey this time; instead, I'm heading for the town of Trim, where lunch and a visit to Trim Castle await. Few places in Ireland have more medieval buildings than the town of Trim, and Trim Castle, built in 1172, is the foremost of these. The castle was built in the form of a massive fortress intended for both protection and defence, and it was also the seat of central administration. You can look around the grounds yourself, but to enter the castle, you need to book a guided tour.
The building is three storeys high, and as the roofs have burnt, you can see all the way up to the roof ridge. You can also take the stairs up where new walkways have been installed for us visitors. The thick stone walls offer protection, but it's not particularly cosy. Which also explains why King Richard II av England chose to live in tents on the other side of the river instead of here at the castle. However, before he travelled home, he left Henry V as a prisoner at the castle.
Trim Castle has received an extra boost in visitor numbers after the film Braveheart, starring Mel Gibson, was filmed here. One man in our group points with satisfaction at various rooms and locations he recognises from the film. Sometimes, they even have special screenings of the film here in Trim. It's also great that National Geographic has named Trim Castle as one of the 100 places in the world that can change how children see the world if they have the opportunity to visit.
I am trying to navigate to Summerhill House Hotel I end up in the middle of nowhere in Enniskerry, where I'm supposed to be checking in. I realise the GPS must be a few years out of date and ask my phone for help instead. The hotel has recently been awarded its fourth star, and the service is excellent. I manage to squeeze in a massage at the Rainforest spa on the grounds before it's time for dinner. Well-prepared, delicious, and pleasant. Many of the guests, including ourselves, stay after dinner for both drinks and conversation. The days go by quickly, and all that's left is one more castle visit, this time in Wicklow.
MORE INFO
Collected information on the Boyne Valley can be found here:
www.discoverboynevalley.ie
You can find collected information about Wicklow here:
www.visitwicklow.ie
THE WOODS OF AVONDALE
Calling Avondale House a castle might be a stretch, but I'm choosing to include it in my trio. In 1777, he inherited Samuel Hayes A young lawyer and naturalist lives in his father's house. He finds himself here surrounded by nature, and his interest in forestry blossoms. He was ahead of his time, already realising that deforestation was a problem and that the primeval forest was disappearing. The subject interested him so much that he wrote Ireland's first book about trees. ”Practical Treatise on Trees, which comes out in 1794.
He also creates a large forest park on his estate. A brief digression: after his death, the house is inherited by his cousin Sir John Parnell, who fills the house with life and 11 children, of whom Charles Stewart Parnell He was one of the children. He was later elected as a Member of the British Parliament where he played a prominent role.
But back to the forest which here continues to play the main role. In 1904, Avondale was bought
Park of the State, and a school of forestry came to be housed in Avondale House. Between 1905 and 1913, the students here carried out an experiment and planted 99 different tree species to see which ones grew best right here. Among these, we find both redwood trees from California and Sitka Spruce from British
Columbia, the latter being a tree species that can grow over 100 metres high. This unique cultivation formed the basis for research in the field.
It's starting to be time to wrap things up, and we're doing it on a high note. To better experience both the trees and the nature here, a concept has been erected under the heading Beyond the Trees. The experience begins with a ”Tree topwalk, is a walk along a 1.4-kilometre-long wooden bridge that takes us from the ground up to the treetops. Here and there you'll find signs where you can learn more about the trees, animals, and the surroundings. This is truly an experience that suits everyone, and where your senses will be stimulated. Leaves rustle, the sun shines, and of course, the birds are chirping too. It's beautiful, and breathtaking at the same time.
We're going through a tunnel and will emerge at ”the jewel in the crown” So here is a 38-metre high wooden tower. This type of tower can be found in several places around the world, and this particular tower opened in June 2022. Before we go up, we buy a ticket to get down. Then the walk begins, step by step we go upwards. At the very top, a 360-degree view over Wicklow and the river awaits. Avonmore, in a landscape sometimes referred to as ”The Garden of Ireland.” It is green and beautiful. Up here it's windy, a cup of tea would be perfect here, and is also a hot tip. It's time to take the slide down.
5 VISITING TIPS
Brú na Bóinne in the Boyne Valley
To visit the magical resting places here, you must pre-book a ticket – do it!
Slane Castle
Can be experienced in various ways, via concert ticket, or a guided tour, sometimes afternoon tea is also served, and right next door is the distillery where you can book both a tour and a tasting.
Trim Castle
Easy to buy a ticket directly at the counter to visit the castle itself, but make sure to also wander around the grounds.
Avondale House
It is possible to book a guided tour of the house where it all began. However, the vast majority opt to focus on the Beyond the Trees experience.
