After being the champagne served for two consecutive years at The Nobel Banquet In Stockholm City Hall, Taittinger is more popular than ever in Sweden. But we begin our tour down in the cellar in Reims, which is impressive, divided into two levels and four kilometres long. The cellar was dug by the Romans in the 4th century. During the 14th century, it was also part of the Saint Nicaise monastery that stood here; some remnants still remain. In the 18th century, it was realised that this was the perfect environment for storing champagne. The cool temperature allows the wine to mature slowly. In the visitor section of the cellar, it is the house's Counts of Champagne which lie in a row, the yellow lighting creates an extra dimension.
– When my father bought back Taittinger, he wanted both my brother and I to be involved in the business, says Vitalie Taittinger as she comes to meet us, having just emerged from the cellar.
She was living in Paris at the time, but her father, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, wanted her closer if she was to be part of the company. Today, she lives in a nearby village and often goes into the office in Reims. Vitalie Taittinger has taken on her role, and despite a contagious laugh and gala dresses, she is working intensively for the company's success. Her role is both commercial and creative; she is responsible for the design of new bottles and labels for the champagne, while also being the face of the house and appearing in advertisements as well as acting as a guide to the house on the company's website. Furthermore, she represents Taittinger at several of the events and occasions where their brand is showcased, such as at the Bafta Awards. We begin our tasting with the non-vintage Brut Réserve, which was served at the Nobel Banquet in 2014:
– I am particularly proud that we were chosen as the Nobel champagne two years in a row. First with our standard champagne and then with vintage 2008, the party in Stockholm was one of many Vitalie Taittinger attended.
We are moving on to try the house's prestige cuvée, Comtes de Champagne, which is a personal favourite. Today, it is the 2004 vintage of this incomparably elegant wine that will put us in high spirits. When the rosé version is poured, I don't expect it to surpass my already high expectations, but that is what happens. The family is now planning for nothing other than to continue the business and to grow.
– The need to sell again, and then buy back, I don't think would be a particularly good idea, Vitalie concludes.
The story of the house
The house was founded in 1734 as one of the very first Champagne houses, then under the name Forneaux & Co. Champagne House. Nearly 200 years later, the house was acquired by Pierre Taittinger, who had visited Reims for the first time as a soldier during the First World War; at the same time, he bought La Marquetterie château, where he had been treated for his injuries as a soldier.
But it was Claude Taittinger who ran the house between 1960 and 2005 and built up the brand. In 2005, the family had become too large and not all family members were still interested in running a Champagne house. They chose to sell the house to Starwood Capital, an American investment company, with a primary focus on operating hotels. Taittinger would be a side venture, but it wasn't as straightforward as initially thought. Therefore, the opportunity arose to buy back Taittinger the following year. Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger fought to secure an agreement with Crédit Agricole and succeeded in 660,000,000 euros to buy back the family home. Today he runs the business together with his son Clovis Taittinger, who is in charge of the export market, and his daughter Vitalie Taittinger, who works in marketing.
Address: 9 Place Saint Nicaise, Reims
Tips: The cellar's viewing areas are accessible here, please book your visit in advance.
About the wine
The primary focus of the champagne produced is Chardonnay. Today, the estate owns 289 hectares of vineyards and supplies almost half of its grape requirements, with the rest being purchased from growers on long-term contracts. Annual production stands at 5,000,000–6,000,000 bottles. The number of different cuvée variations is large, but as with all houses, the non-vintage wines sell best.
Champagne tips
- Taittinger Brut Réserve, no. 7422
Fresh and crisp with lovely fruit and good minerality. Delivers every time. - Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2006
Fantastically silky in the mouth with creamy mousse and plenty of red berries. Top class.
