The world’s great watch brands are focusing on the precise emotional charge of a perfect colour. From burgundy-drenched dive watches to iceblue alpine sports watches, VOYAGE presents five luxury timepieces that are ideal for snappy summer dressing.
ASK A WATCHMAKER what the hardest thing about colour is, and they will not talk about pigment or ceramic firing temperatures or the eighteen months it takes to perfect a sunburst lacquer finish. They will tell you that the hardest thing is confidence.
Getting the colour right is the technical challenge. Committing to it, splashing it across the entire dial, wrapping it around the bezel, running it through the strap, and making it the entire point… that takes nerve. The five examples below show exactly that kind of belief.
Colour in watchmaking has always carried significant meaning. The British Army’s regimental blues, the aviation world’s instrument blacks, the dive community’s high-visibility oranges. But what is happening in recent years feels different.
These are not functional colour choices or heritage callbacks dressed up as novelties. Chopard christened their new dial shade after the river that runs through Geneva, imbuing a colour with geography and intent. Tudor went back into its own archives to retrieve a burgundy so historically loaded it carries sixty years of brand identity on its wrist. Vacheron Constantin took their most beloved sports watch and paired it with a sunburst green that evokes a sunlit forest.
Each of these decisions was made by a design team who understood that a watch’s colour is not just what you see when you look at it. It is what you feel. It’s about impressing people via emotion as much as horology.
COLOUR IN WATCHMAKING HAS ALWAYS CARRIED SIGNIFICANT MEANING. THE BRITISH ARMY’S REGIMENTAL BLUES, THE AVIATION WORLD’S INSTRUMENT BLACKS, THE DIVE COMMUNITY’S HIGH-VISIBILITY ORANGES. BUT WHAT IS HAPPENING IN RECENT YEARS FEELS DIFFERENT
The watches here will dive to 300 metres, cross time zones, and outlast their owners, but they will also turn heads and make the person wearing them feel, at least a little, like they are exactly where they ought to be. That is not a small thing. In fact, in the business of luxury, it might be the whole thing.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS, GREEN & GOLD
LAUNCH YEAR: 2024 | PRICE: $60 500 (SELF-WINDING, PINK GOLD)
Vacheron Constantin’s most important modern sports watch collection took a bold chromatic leap in 2024, pairing rose gold cases with a sunburst green dial across the full Overseas line.
Vacheron’s Style & Heritage Director emphasised the desire to expand the Overseas palette beyond the traditional white, black, and iconic blue, describing the collection as an ideal canvas for colour experimentation. The result was the sunburst green, matched to pink gold, seen across the Self-Winding, Dual Time, and Chronograph – with the latter being one of the most talked-about sports watches at Watches & Wonders 2024. At this level of watchmaking, colour is rarely this ebullient.
Most luxury sports watches treat green as somehow sober. The Vacheron Overseas green is warm and almost tropical, and that sunburst finish shifts from forest depth to bright lime as the wrist moves. Paired with rose gold rather than steel, it feels coastal and celebratory rather than technical. No other watch at this tier makes green feel this much like summer.
The 18K pink gold case with soft iron anti-magnetic ring offers water resistance of approximately 150 metres, but let’s be honest, the Overseas is not a dive watch and you’d have to be crackers to treat it like one.
