A luxurious 5-star check-in combined with one of Switzerland's most popular freeskiing areas makes Engelberg a hot destination. Here, past and present blend into a unique experience. 

Getting to Engelberg, located in the Swiss canton of Obwalden, takes just over an hour from Zurich Airport, whether you take the train or drive. Before we get to Engelberg itself, we start our winter experience with a check-in at Frutt Mountain Resort, a hotel located 1,920 meters above sea level. Our driver drops us off at the Stöcalp valley station, where we first check in our luggage and then take the gondola up. Down in the valley, the snow has melted in places, but up here on the Melchsee-Frutt plateau, it's all white and the sun is shining. From the gondola it's just a short walk to the hotel.

There will be a late lunch outside at the hotel's restaurant Titschli Terrace, where we end up in the middle of the beautiful winter landscape. When the snow doesn't cover the ground, you can see Lake Melchsee from here. Now it's the slopes, the lifts and the skiers that are in focus. The skiers and snowboarders are now swiping down for the last run of the day before it's time to close the lifts for the day. 

Frutt Mountain Resort is a 4-star wellness hotel with 114 rooms and suites spread over two buildings: we have rooms in the Mountain Lodge which has a slightly more adult focus, the other part Lago Lodge has a pronounced family focus. These two buildings are connected via a tunnel.

Time to pist
We manage to visit the spa before it's time for a slightly odd and unique experience before tomorrow's skiing here on the slopes. We've received an invitation to take part in skiing our own piste!

We have arrived at the slope we will now ski for tomorrow. It is absolutely breathtaking.

The large snow machines are lined up in the garage. I choose to step into the largest of these together with one of the most experienced drivers, he has driven up and down these slopes for many years. I don't remember how many. It feels quite calm and safe to drive up the mountain, we stop at a few places, enjoy the view and take photos. Then we stop until Sascha goes out and secures our vehicle with a cable. 

We've arrived at the slope we're going to ski for tomorrow. It's absolutely breathtaking. It feels like free fall straight down when he's driving downhill, any second we could just rush off the mountain. Is this really possible? When we're going downhill it feels insanely scary. Going up a little less so. The first trip up and down was the absolute scariest, but we're going up and down a few more times. I think I'll get used to it a little, but no, I'm not. The work is done properly and when we get back down to the garage I start to breathe a little easier, it's starting to get dark.

Up here I sleep well, and the view when I pull up the curtains the next day is magical. It feels like stepping into a beautiful photograph. Breakfast and then it's time to head out onto the slopes. The slopes are grouped together and it's easy to meet up even if you choose different runs. It takes a little while before we find the slope we've been on and pisted. It's a red slope, and I would say that it felt significantly steeper when we went down here in the piste machine than it does on skis. However, it's like we've gained a slightly more intimate relationship between me and the slope. I know what awaits behind the next crest, when it will pull up and when it will flatten out.

Tobogganing for the whole family
Staying up here for a few days is highly recommended. You get away from distractions and life seems easy. A snowshoe walk out onto the lake to try your luck at fishing is an alternative. There is also a nice viewpoint you can easily walk to, as well as the opportunity to go cross-country skiing. But the majority of guests here still focus on skiing down the well-groomed slopes. When it is time for us to check out, it is possible to take the toboggan down the mountain. The ride takes a little over half an hour. It is easy to regulate the speed yourself, which makes this a fun end to the visit up on Frutt both for families with children, and us adults too for that matter.

Our second check-in is at the 5-star Kempinski Palace Engelberg. The hotel, which originally opened in 1904, is now in its third winter season after being closed for five years for an extensive renovation and restoration, which also included the addition of a modern extension. The location in the middle of the main street in Engelberg, 100 meters from the train station makes it easy to get here. The hotel, also the only 5-star in Engelberg, today has 129 rooms and suites and is, together with the monastery and the church, the central elements of the town. Before we explore the hotel a little closer, it is time for a top tour.

Titlis a Bollywood backdrop
In the impressive reception, with high ceilings and cozy seating areas, we meet Nadia Sommer, PR and marketing manager from the tourist office. Together we will now explore what is offered up on Titlis in addition to the fantastic skiing that has completely saved many enthusiastic skiers. The very first lift was built here in 1927, the next big lift sensation happened in 1995 when the Rotari lift, the very first rotating lift, was opened. With this lift we take ourselves up to 3,020 meters above sea level during a 5-minute journey. The lift rotates slowly, and during our trip we are treated to 360 degrees of magnificent views. However, we do not get all the way to the top of Titlis, which is located at 3,238 meters.

Where we get off we now find a SnowXpark where it is possible to ride a snowmobile around a track. The area here also has a strong Bollywood connection as several film companies have been here and filmed. One of the most famous is the iconic and multiple award-winning film from 1995 ”Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge” with stars Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol in the lead roles. Among the environments we encounter on the screen are both the glacier cave and the breathtaking Titlis Cliff Walk. Many fans, especially Indians, make a pilgrimage here to see the filming locations and take a selfie on site. We take the gondola down, and then take the hotel's own transfer back, the journey only takes a few minutes.

Kempinski Palace Hotel
We drive up to the hotel entrance. Here she stands now, a beautiful hotel in all its splendor, proud, freshly painted, six stories high. She was originally built as the Grand Hotel Winterhaus in December 1905 by Eduard Cattani. A few years earlier, he had bought land from the Benedictine monastery in Engelberg, which was founded in 1120, and built a luxurious health resort, a spa. The view was magical and Engelberg established itself as a tourist destination. The problem now was that the health resort could not be heated in the winter, so Eduard Cattani asked his brother, the architect Arnold Cattani, to build a hotel – a hotel that would primarily have central heating but also offer a pronounced health focus with opportunities for relaxation, recreation and activities all year round. Belle Epoque is the style here that enchants us.

”The ”Repa” is grand, with high ceilings and generous seating areas, marble, stucco, brass. The architectural firm Jestico + Wihles from London has done a fine job of preserving and highlighting the past while adding contemporary elements. Here, it is perhaps most visible in the lighting and reception desk. A winter garden can be seen a little further in, where afternoon tea is currently being served. It is time to go up to the room and change for the evening.

All rooms have high ceilings, beautiful stucco and are decorated in a way that makes the mountains outside blend into the experience. The color scheme is bright and the lighting is modern, to which are added shelves and desks in brushed oak with details in light brown leather. It is of course elegant without being in any way ostentatious. Possibly the view from the balcony of the Titlis suite is a bit ostentatious. Anyway, we live well here.

A classic cocktail
We sit down at the bar in the horseshoe-shaped The Palace Bar, where the feeling of sitting down in 1920s decadence is palpable. The drinks list is extensive, and I aim for the bar's signature cocktails. A Swiss Negroni or a Titlis Cosmo I think. Before I discover the Mountain Berry which includes vanilla vodka, mountain berries and elderflower liqueur. Slurp.

Tonight we will eat in the hotel's main restaurant Cattani, which offers a brasserie concept with a focus on Swiss and French specialties. Locally grown, organic and with as local an origin as possible is what matters.
– Ever since I started here, we have had visits from local producers who have showcased their products, and we have also visited many of them, Michéle Müller, Director of Food & Beverage, tells us.

Michéle Müller has been here since the reopening in 2021 and has an exciting background as a chef herself, where different destinations and their specific food cultures have left their mark on her working methods. This is now receiving great attention when she has been chosen to represent the canton of Obwalden and Kempinski Palace Engelberg on board for passengers on Swiss Airways long-haul flights in business and first class.

Freeriders' Big 5
In Engelberg, it's all about skiing, and the destination has long been popular for its fantastic skiing. Here you will find, among other things, the Big 5 for freeskiers: Labu, Sulz, Steintäli, Steinberg and Galtiberg. All of these can be reached directly from the lift. The skiing here offers long runs and powder snow, and going with a mountain guide or a ski instructor is recommended. We leave the unique ski experiences to the experts, and if you google it, you can find interviews and films where Mattias Hargin offers his best tips. He himself has had Engelberg as his second home for a number of years, so I trust that he conveys the experience of skiing here much better than you.

After a day on the slopes, it's time for us to head up to the 6th floor to what can be seen as the jewel in the crown - the magnificent spa area. The large windows, which also include the fact that the roof is made of glass, mean that you end up in the middle of the magical landscape. While you swim or let the bubbles in the warm water massage your tired body. Magical. I won't torment you who read with more superlatives, but briefly inform you that this is an experience you don't want to miss.

Torches, fondue & champagne
We have arrived on our last evening, we dress warmly and go up to the Flühmatt restaurant where we begin the evening's excursion. Out on the terrace we are treated to mulled wine and delicious cheeses. We are 1,352 meters above sea level and from here we see the sunset over Engelberg. Shortly after seven o'clock it is time for us to light our torches and begin our walk back to the town through the forest. It is atmospheric and a little mysterious. We arrive at the church, take a look inside and then go back to the hotel. 

Instead of using the main entrance, we now go to the back of the hotel where we find Chalet Ruinart, a rustic-style mountain hut where we will eat cheese fondue and drink champagne tonight. The conversation continues, we dip the bread, potatoes and pickled vegetables in the melted cheese until we are completely stuffed. A while later, the cheese has started to burn in the pan, a delicacy that has even been given its own name – grossmutter (in Swedish grandmother or grandmother), annoyingly enough it is delicious and we take turns scraping it out of the pots.

History
Engelberg – Mountain of Angels
In 1120, the nobleman Konrad von Sellenbüren founded a monastery. Initially, he had wanted to build the monastery in Lake Lucerne. But it was impossible, every time he tried, the walls collapsed.

One night Konrad wakes up and angels tell him that he should not build the monastery here but that they will show him the way to where he should build. On an ox he rides up the mountain and into the valley until he reaches what is Engelberg today. When they arrive, the ox lies down and falls asleep. Then Konrad realizes that he has arrived. 

The first monks see and hear angels singing behind the Hahnen mountain, and they called the mountain Engelberg – the mountain of angels.

More information:
www.engelberg.ch

Winter season
Is long and offers skiing from November to May!

Frutt Mountain Resort
Melchsee-Frutt, Switzerland Price example: from 3,200 SEK/room/night in mid-March www.fruttmountainresort.com

Kempinski Palace Hotel
Dorfstrasse 40, Engelberg, Switzerland Price example: from 6,200 SEK/room/night in mid-March www.kempinski.com/en/engelberg