We checked in for a long weekend, on a small island – loaded with experiences. Here we had time to marvel at both nature and culture. Gozo is a destination well worth discovering.
IT'S SOMETHING especially with islands, their natural limitations can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. The island we are going to get to know a little better is called Gozo and is sometimes called Malta's sister island. In terms of size, it offers 68 square kilometers, is 14 kilometers long and 7 kilometers wide and is home to 33,000 inhabitants. In comparison, Gotland is 47 times larger than Gozo!
The basic element both in Malta and in Gozo is stone – specifically limestone. Stone is present wherever we look, from temples and churches, to beaches and caves. Stone, stone everywhere, often in soft beige and yellow shades. From my balcony at the Quaint Boutique Hotel in Nadur, I experience how the sun makes the houses along the streets glow. The sun, the stone and the sea of course, here often azure blue, is the color palette here on Gozo.
From the airport in Malta, the drive to the port of Ċirkewwa takes just over half an hour. The large ferry then runs a shuttle service to the port of Mġarr on Gozo – the trip out here is free! You only pay for the ticket when you travel back, the price for an adult is 4.65 Euro. We have booked transport from the port and are heading to Xagħra to have lunch. All these cities, with their difficult-to-spell names, make me completely slip around on the keyboard… The reason for this is Malta's history and all the peoples who have left their mark in the form of their respective languages here – Maltese is a mix of Arabic, Italian, Latin and English from different times. Enough about that, we park next to the square and cathedral in Xagħra and step into the Al Sale restaurant.
FOOD IN FOCUS
The interior is rustic, the restaurant has two floors and chef Christopher Pace opened in 2021. The ambition level is high – Mediterranean flavors and the best of fish and meat are what are served. Fine ingredients, fine flavors, have resulted in several awards, the finest of which is an award in the 2024 Michelin Guide. I myself enjoy a fish baked under a salt blanket that is filleted at the table. Yum and then time for check-in in Nadur.
During my days on Gozo, I notice that food and drink are really at the center of island life here. Breakfast is simple, a coffee and a cake. Then a long lunch, and even later a long dinner. After breakfast the next day, food is on the agenda. Together with the head chef Philip Spliteri, we will gather the ingredients for a lunch that we will cook together. We buy bread from the wood-oven bakery in Xewkija, we buy goat cheese in a small shop with the sign ”Gbejniet Tan-Naghar” whose English translation advertises ”Sheep Cheeselets”, and then we pick up a few bottles of wine from a friend of Philip. After this we visit Lunzjata Valley, one of the island's most lush places next to the village of Kerċem.
The valley has been cultivated for centuries thanks to the natural springs found here. Today, an EU project is being run here that is about cultivating in the traditional way. We walk around, enjoy and marvel - thoughts of the past are present. Philip then takes us back to the present and to his restaurant Ta´Philip in Għajnsielem. Here we cook, eat and enjoy.
WE WALK IN THE ROAD, AND ARE TASKED TO COLLECT NATURAL MATERIALS THAT WE WILL THEN PAINT WITH. FLOWERS, LEAVES, A LITTLE SAND, A LITTLE CLAY AND A FEW SEED PODS END UP IN MY LITTLE BAG
PIGMENT HUNT & PAINTING
Full and satisfied, we are ready for today's art experience. We head to Hermine Sammut's studio in Nadur. Hermine is from Vienna but is married to a Maltese and has lived here for over 30 years. Her own art, and art retreats are on the family's agenda in the company Connect2Gozo. She begins our experience with a brief overview of natural pigments, showing the ground powder, talking about nature. Before we set off to go pigment hunting in nature, I take a look inside the cozy rooms that are available for rent here.
Hippie life deluxe!
We walk away, and are given the task of collecting natural materials that we will then paint with. Flowers, leaves, some sand, some clay and a few seed capsules end up in my little bag. The sun is shining and today we will paint outdoors, Hermine has a small plot of land where she has set up an outdoor studio, a place for chickens and a small house where you can spend the night. The view is magnificent, and it is set up for creativity. Hermine advises us to follow nature's silhouette in a line and then paint with what we found. It's really super fun and one of my absolute highlights during my visit to Gozo – simply a warm recommendation.
TEMPLE OF THE GIANTS
Stone, limestone and history are the theme for the next day. Limestone of two types is the dominant rock type: Globigernia limestone – the one used in most buildings, and coral limestone – a harder version that occurs in smaller quantities. Both of these types of limestone are found in the Ġgantija Temple, which is classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The Ġgantija Temple was built during the Neolithic period, 3600 – 3200 BC, and is older than both The Pyramids (ca. 2600 BC) and Stonehenge (3000 BC). The Ġgantija temple is impressive, and we gather in front of a speaker who tells us a little about its history. Among other things, we learn that the temple was built for religious ceremonies connected to fertility and for the worship of gods and goddesses.
The word ggant is the Maltese word for giants and according to legend, it was giants who built the temple. And considering some of the enormous stone blocks, it doesn't seem too unbelievable. Looking at pictures of the temple from above is also interesting - that's when its grandeur becomes clear. Ġgantija Temple is Malta's most important prehistoric monument and a visit is almost essential.
Before we end our tour for the day, we have time to take a look inside the Ta´Kola windmill in ix-Xagħra, we'll see
St George's Basilica in Victoria, the island's capital, and the medieval fortress Citadel. It's truly magical that there is so much to see and experience here on this small island. The evening's long dinner is eaten
We at Qbajjar Restaurant down by the quayside in Qbajjar, Marsalforn. Maltese, prime ingredients and stylish arrangements are the theme. A starry sky and a little lapping of the waves come with it.
THE CLIFFS AS A BACKDRESS
Nature magic is the theme for the day, which we begin with a walk along Dwejra Bay. The rock formations here are magical, and the most well-known was Azure Window, the blue window, which collapsed in a storm in 2017. But even without this particular symbol, the stretch of coast here is magical, the more adventurous climb or dive. I myself choose to take a detour as the cliff ledge becomes too narrow and steep.
The grandeur of nature is reminiscent, we meet a fisherman who shows off his traditional fishing cage. The landscape is magnificent and has also acted as a film backdrop on several occasions, for example Game of Thrones and Clash of the Titans.
We have arrived at Xwejni where they the characteristic salt pans exists, and has existed now for closer 350 years. The pans are like small basins and according to tradition they are filled with sea water. During the harvest season, May to September, you can see how the salt farmers build the salt into piles before it is harvested. As a souvenir it can be fun to buy a bag of salt that is sold here and there.
Today's lunch destination is Il Kantra Lido, an outdoor restaurant located on a hill right next to a fjord that juts out. There are sun loungers here, you can go down and swim, and you can eat well and for a long time. The restaurant is popular, so booking a table is recommended as it is a bit secluded and can sometimes be
subscribed. The food takes time but what does this do, life is beautiful and the wine list is phenomenal, and also includes two local wines produced on the island, a rosé and a red. We get in some bottles of rosé, and just enjoy. A trio right behind us are dressed to the teeth, have their little dog with them and seem to be celebrating.
I enjoy fantasizing about the reason for this. Secluded, luxurious, a little mysterious. Regardless, the food is magnificent and the place is just as so, the hours roll by.
WE GO DOWN TO SWIM, THE SAND ON THE BEACH IS ENTIRELY RED AND THE CONTRAST WITH THE TURQUOISE SEA MAKES THE FEELING OF STEPPING INTO A FAIRYTALE WORLD tangibly felt.
THE RED SAND
The days go by quickly and we have arrived at our last day. And today we are going to swim, not once but twice. We start by sighing at the sea as we step into the Tal-Mixta cave, which offers a magnificent view of the island's most famous beach Ramla Bay. We go down to swim, the sand on the beach is completely red and the contrast with the turquoise sea makes the feeling of stepping into a fairy tale world tangible.
It's not as easy to order a taxi from the beach – the taxi driver doesn't want a sandy car, so take that into account before your swimming adventure. Today's lunch will be in picnic format at Gozo Picnic, a company run by Anna Kvisling who serves the best of the best in absolutely magical places around the island. Her concept is appreciated and suits everything from couples and families to groups of all kinds. We are sitting under the trees in a small park with a view of the harbor in Mgarr. It is beautifully laid out, blankets, tablecloths and lots of bowls with delicious dishes. Anna says that she has lived on the island for a long time, and that the only thing she misses are friends who have been here as long as she has. For her, it is all about enjoying the moment, which she really invites her guests to do. Follow her on Instagram and be tempted by all the beautiful and delicious things Gozo has to offer.
From the harbor we take the boat out to Comino to experience the sunset. The island is even smaller than Gozo, and has only one inhabitant. However, the number of visitors who come out to swim here during the summer is significantly higher. We go into a bay, swim from the boat. We go around, it rocks, the rocks stand guard, the sun sets and it's time to go home.
3 FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
Il Kantra Lido
Hotel ta´Cenc, Sannat Magical environment, with swimming facilities and nice views.
www.ilkantralido.com
Al Saleh
Michelin restaurant for the gourmet.
32, Victory Square, Xagħra
@alsalerestaurant
Ta'Philip Restaurant
Family restaurant with possibilities. 2
9, Anthony Street, Ghânsielem
www.taphiliprestaurant.com
EXPERIENCES
Connect2Gozo
Art retreat, accommodation and painting in Nadur.
@connect2gozo
Gozo Picnic
Homemade food served in magical places around Gozo.
@gozpicnic
