There is an allure in that journey that goes a little slower, that slow travel is a hot trend is a fact. And that river cruising is exactly that. For three days, we will now use Viva Cruises' ship Gloria to travel from central Paris and out to the Normandy coast where we will dock in Le Havre.
The day we board, the sky is grey and it's raining lightly. Our cabin isn't ready yet, so we gather in the ship's large panorama bar for some snacks and a drink. The price of the trip includes food and drinks. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon snacks are the concept, drinks both with and without alcohol, from the ship's selected champagne, to coffee and tea. Once per cruise, High Tea is also served. Now there will be some tasty sandwiches, a cake, a drink and a cup of tea.
The sun is peeking out, and it's still two hours until we drop anchor. I've seen that there's a jacuzzi on the sun deck. That's it, swimsuits on and splashing into the water. The city's skyline is fantastic, and a little further ahead the Eiffel Tower towers. It's autumn, and here we are lying in the warm water, enjoying ourselves. This is a taste of the two components this trip will consist of: enjoyment and history. We set off. Our captain takes a small detour, we travel back to see that beautiful view where the Eiffel Tower and a mini-version of the Goddess of Liberty are together in the same picture. The flags wave, the waves lapping, we turn around and turn back and the trip can begin.
TIME TO LEAVE
We go to the cabin, 15 square meters with everything you need, including a French balcony. The ship Gloria is 110 meters long and offers 76 cabins with space for a maximum of 152 passengers. We open the curtain and enjoy the scenery we pass. Pretty soon we are out in the countryside.
It's time for dinner. The meals are the highlights here on board. Three courses with matching local wines, different ones for each meal. The non-alcoholic options are a bit more boring, but the cider definitely works. What strikes me is that the passengers on board are really enjoying themselves. The age is a bit higher, and traveling two couples together seems to be popular. The nationalities vary, Germans, Americans, Italians and then our Scandinavian gang. We end up next to a couple from Idaho: We've just had a few hectic days in London, and now we're going to take the opportunity to enjoy France. This is really our kind of trip, Susan and Brian conclude.
INTO THE MIDDLE AGES
The boat glides along, it's getting dark. I have time to think – so nice that it's not rocking. When we wake up the next morning, we're about to drop anchor in the medieval town. Les Andelys. In each port it is possible to book a guided tour for those who wish.
This morning's exploration takes us on a walk into the small, pretty town and a visit to the church before we take the bus up and around the mountain. Our goal is to reach the fortress. Chateau Gaillard which was built by Richard the Lionheart in 1196–1198. The castle is magnificent and was supposed to protect Normandy. The silhouette of the ruin is beautiful, the sky is blue and our guide tells us that it took eight months of fighting for the French King Philip II to take the fortress. We walk back down to our ship and are back in time for departure and a delicious lunch.
The buffet is prepared, and the drink is selected. The landscape we pass is magnificent and where is the best place to enjoy it – from the jacuzzi of course if you ask me. We splash around and soak until our skin starts to wrinkle. We also manage to visit Captain Nicolas Peningue on the bridge.
The silhouette of the ruin is beautiful, the sky is blue and our guide tells us that it took eight months of
battle for the French King Philip II to capture the fortress.
– I come from a family of sailors, my father worked at sea and I myself couldn't imagine anything else. During the pandemic I bought my own ship to run freight, now I'm happy to be back on board here at Gloria.
THE CATHEDRAL AS A BACKDRESS
At seven o'clock we arrive at the second stop of the day, the capital of Normandy – Rouen. We have dinner and then walk up in the dark to the cathedral. Rouen Cathedral is built in the Gothic style and is considered one of the most beautiful in the country. Construction began in 1030, it is 151 meters high and is a French Roman Catholic cathedral, previously also a coronation and burial church for the Norman dukes. Richard the Lionheart is one of those buried here. Today it is the metropolitan church in Normandy, and tonight it is the canvas for the light show we are about to see. The music is turned up, a leopard runs across the facade, a trio of women in a boat painted by Claude Monet sailing past. The war, the city, the decay. Beautiful and dramatic. An experience well worth visiting, and suitable for the whole family.
The next morning it's time to discover the magnificent medieval city with its cozy alleys and interesting architecture. Yesterday we already saw the astronomical clock – Gros Horloge. The clock is placed above an arch in a Renaissance building and the clockwork was made at the end of the 14th century. Quite simply a masterpiece. Cobblestone alleys and half-timbered houses, it's a bit like stepping into a movie set. We end up at the market, Old Market, taste and buy a piece of cheese before we visit the magnificent church of Saint Jeanne d'Arc in a building that reminds us of a sailboat. Absolutely worth a visit! After this there will be chocolate tasting in a small shop. I realize that the Swedish kronor is not enough so even though the chocolate is delicious I refrain from shopping.
We pass the home of French author Maurice Leblanc, famous for The Gentleman Thief, before we encounter the sea and the beach. It's like something out of a painting – which it is.
WINE TASTING AND VALIDATION
It's time to sail on. And tonight before dinner, the table is set for wine tasting at the aptly named bar. Wine Wine. Here we meet the couple from Idaho again, a bunch from Germany and a few more Americans. International and fun. We smell, gargle, and taste. The French know this too, we note as we cruise along the river.
It's time to go through the locks and Susan, the one from Idaho, and I realize that this slow travel thing is the thing. The locks are the eighth and last of the trip. Before we go to bed we have reached our last outpost, Le Havre. The next morning we wake up to a magical sunrise that colors the sky orange and purple. Le Havre is a port city, today the second largest in France, the largest being Marseille. We take a tour through row after row of containers before we make our way into the city center. The city was liberated by Allied troops on September 12, 1944, Le Havre was then completely bombed and is today a city where the 1950s have left their mark. There is much to discover, my top two are: the church of Saint-Joseph which is a masterpiece in concrete, and the modern museum André Margaux with its fine collection of impressionist paintings, many with local motifs.
MOTIN'S MOTIVE
After a morning in the city, we head out to Étretat, which is located on the magical Alabaster Coast, a coast named after the limestone cliffs that rise up to 90 meters high here. We pass the home of the French writer Maurice Leblanc, famous for The Gentleman Thief, before we meet the sea and the beach. It's like something out of a painting - which it is. Some places here are excellent for
show where the artist Claude Monet stood when he painted these particular paintings. On the left is Porte d´Aval, on the right is Manneporte. We have an hour to get up to one of them. We ask around and are advised to choose Porte d'Aval. The nature is impressive, the sea rolls in, the light, waves, wind and sun. That many artists have sought this place feels as natural as nature itself.
Tomorrow Gloria will turn around and sail back to Paris, and we will disembark. But before that a farewell dinner and another excursion. And speaking of excursions, they are completely optional, and also cost extra. However, the majority of travelers choose to join in, some wander around on their own. If you love history and want to see and experience a lot without having read much, I highly recommend the excursions, which are also adapted to
the boat's timetable. Our last dinner feels a little sad, we have entered a nice lull. The nice ship, the food, the staff, and all the fantastic places we have visited. Once again I note that our
fellow passengers really enjoy it, and I guess many of them have been on river cruises before, and who
will do it again.
OYSTERS IN A MOVIE SET
The last adventure of the trip will be a visit to Honfleur, in the department of Calvados, a city that survived the bombs during the Second World War and is therefore teeming with history. The city has been an important port city for over 1,000 years, Vikings have lived here, William the Conqueror set out from here and from here trade with North America, the Caribbean, the Azores and Africa began. It is also said to be the birthplace of Impressionism, the artist Eugène Boudin lived here, who today also has a museum here, who was the one who encouraged Claude Monet to start painting landscapes. Historically, I could write an essay here but I will leave it there and note that it not only looks like a film set but also notes that a film crew is in place. It is some popular French TV series that is blocking the bridge we intended to cross.
The half-timbered houses from the 17th and 18th centuries are magical and are located in a row, among other things, down by the Vieux Bassin harbor, a silhouette that many artists have adopted. And which makes me think of Nyhavn in Copenhagen. The restaurants here, however, are primarily crèche and oyster bars. However, our entourage is here a little too early so we choose to end this visit with a cup of coffee and a croissant. It is time to begin the journey home.
VIVA CRUISES
The shipping company started in 2018 as a new part of the Swiss shipping company Scylla. The concept is all-inclusive cruises in Europe: currently in Germany, France, the Netherlands and Portugal. Viva Cruises has a clear sustainability plan, and plans for the launch of new ships and concepts. Viva Cruises' motto is: "Enjoy the moment".
Price example 2025
Seine Romance cruise, 7 nights with Viva Gloria. Ten departures are offered between May and October.
Price from 19,000 SEK/person.
More information
www.viva-cruises.com
